Nozzle Body Parts Breakdown

All four share the same tips, caps, gaskets and strainers — the body choice only changes the body part number and its check valve.

Numbers on the drawing match the list. Tap either one.

Parts you've added from the list above. Set quantities per nozzle × number of nozzles, then add everything to the cart at once.

1. Depressurize and rinse. Boom off, pressure bled, and flush with clean water before you open anything — the strainer is full of whatever you sprayed last.
2. Quarter-turn the cap off. Tip and gasket come with it. Note which tip was there (the cap color is the tip size color).
3. Pull the strainer out of the body outlet with needle-nose pliers. Replace rather than clean if the mesh is torn or the frame is cracked; a 50-mesh strainer is $1.50.
4. Unscrew the end cap on top of the body (the check valve). The diaphragm sits under it. Replace the diaphragm if it's swollen, cracked, or has a ring worn into it — this is the cause of 90% of dripping nozzles.
5. Inspect the body for cracks at the eyelet and the outlet threads. A cracked body needs a new body; loosen the clamp screw, swing the split eyelet open, and swap it without pulling the boom hose.
6. Reassemble in reverse: diaphragm (smooth side toward the end cap), end cap hand-tight, strainer, then gasket, tip and cap. Caps are hand-tight only — overtightening cracks the cap ears.
7. Pressure test with water. Every nozzle should start and stop together when the section valve cycles; one that keeps dripping has a bad diaphragm or a seat washer out of place.